Few modern designers have become as instantly recognizable as David Yurman. From the iconic cable twist to the mixed-metal motifs, his pieces have developed a devoted collector base, and certain older examples are now selling for impressive sums.
If you’ve inherited or unearthed an early Yurman bracelet, ring, or necklace, understanding what determines its market value is the first step before selling or insuring it. This guide breaks down the main factors that influence price, typical ranges for sought-after pieces, and practical tips for confirming authenticity.
Founded in 1980, the New York–based brand quickly gained acclaim for blending sculptural design with fine-jewelry materials. Early collections like Cable Classics set the style blueprint that is still emulated today.
Because many of these first-generation designs were produced in smaller runs and feature hand-finished details, they now appeal to collectors looking for the “original” Yurman aesthetic, often driving prices beyond contemporary retail.
Legally, the term antique refers to items 100 years or older. Since Yurman’s earliest creations date to the early 1980s, they’re more accurately called vintage. Still, auction listings often use “antique” loosely for pieces from the brand’s first two decades.
For valuation purposes, buyers focus on jewelry produced roughly between 1980 and the late 1990s, especially limited-edition or discontinued lines.
Like any collectible jewelry, multiple elements work together to set a price. Rarity alone isn’t enough, condition and desirability matter just as much.
Prices fluctuate with metal weight and gem quality, but recent auction and resale data provide a reliable benchmark.
Every genuine Yurman item is stamped with the maker’s mark “D.Y.” or spelled-out “David Yurman,” plus a metal purity mark such as “925” for sterling or “750” for 18k gold.
Early bracelets may feature slightly different typography, but the stamp should be crisp and evenly impressed. Soft or blurry hallmarks, misspelled names, or missing purity stamps are immediate red flags.
Light surface wear is expected on silver that’s been loved for decades, yet deep nicks or bent cable wires will lower value sharply. Professional polishing can help, though over-polishing may erase fine detail.
Collectors usually prefer an honest, even patina over an aggressively buffed finish, especially on mixed-metal pieces where excessive polishing can thin gold accents.
Over the past five years, demand for first-issue Cable bracelets and 1990s Albion rings has risen steadily at online auctions and specialty jewelry sales. Scarcity, brand nostalgia, and social-media visibility all contribute to upward momentum.
However, market appetite can shift. Monitoring recent realized prices rather than asking prices provides the clearest picture of what buyers are truly paying today.
Begin with clear, high-resolution photos of hallmarks, stone settings, and any unique details. Weigh the piece accurately and note all measurements.
When contacting an appraiser or auction specialist, provide any original documentation and disclose prior repairs. Transparent information ensures a more precise estimate and smoother sale process.
Early David Yurman jewelry blends recognizability with genuine craftsmanship, a mix that continues to attract collectors worldwide. While sterling cable pieces can start in the low hundreds, rarer 18k or gemstone-intensive designs now reach several thousand dollars at auction.
Whether you plan to sell, insure, or simply understand an heirloom, careful evaluation of hallmark authenticity, condition, and current demand will give you the most accurate picture of its worth.