A well-polished fork can look like a million bucks, literally, if it's sterling silver. But many table sets that shine just as brightly are silver-plated, carrying only a veneer of precious metal over a base alloy. Knowing which you have matters for insurance, resale, and even everyday care.

Fortunately, you don’t need a lab or a loupe to separate solid sterling from plated impostors. With a few observations, and, when required, simple at-home tests, you can determine what’s hiding beneath that reflective surface.

Sterling vs. Silver-Plated: The Core Difference

Sterling silver is an alloy containing 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% copper or other metals for strength. Every visible surface, inside and out, is the same metal blend.

Silver-plated flatware is usually nickel, brass, or stainless steel coated with a microscopically thin layer of silver. Once that top layer wears off, the base metal shows, and the intrinsic silver value disappears.

Start With Hallmarks and Maker’s Marks

Hallmarks are the fastest, least invasive clue. U.S. and British makers stamp "Sterling," "925," or a lion passant to indicate solid sterling content. Continental European pieces may show "800" or "835," which signal lower silver purity and are not sterling.

Silver-plated pieces often carry marks like "EPNS" (Electro-Plated Nickel Silver), "EP" or "A1." Some brands use inventive trademarks, so if the stamp lacks a numeric purity, proceed with caution.

• "Sterling," "925," ".925" – solid sterling
• "EPNS," "EP," "Silver Plate" – plated flatware
• No hallmark – further testing required

Feel the Weight and Balance

Sterling silver is denser than most base metals used for plating. A sterling dinner knife usually feels heavier and better balanced than its plated cousin of identical dimensions.

Pick up two similar forks, one known sterling, one suspect. The weight difference is often obvious in your hand.

Observe Color, Luster, and Patina

Sterling develops a soft gray patina over time, especially in recessed ornamentation. When lightly polished, highlights pop against darker backgrounds.

Silver-plated items tarnish too, but once the thin coat wears, yellowish or reddish base metal peeks through, often along knife edges, heel of spoons, or monogram areas.

The Magnet and Ping Tests

Pure silver is non-magnetic. A standard refrigerator magnet won’t stick to sterling or properly plated nickel silver. If it clings, you’re dealing with stainless steel or another ferrous alloy.

Gently tap the bowl of a spoon with your fingertip. Sterling emits a ringing, bell-like tone; plated pieces sound duller because of their mixed construction.

When to Use Acid or XRF Testing

If hallmarks are worn or missing, jewelers’ acid test kits or handheld X-ray fluorescence (XRF) devices provide definitive answers. A small scratch in an inconspicuous spot exposes metal for a drop of testing solution that changes color based on purity.

While reliable, these methods can mar the finish or cost money. Reserve them for valuable sets, especially those you plan to sell or insure.

Caring for Each Type Once Identified

Sterling tolerates regular, gentle polishing with non-abrasive cloths. Over-polishing actually removes tiny layers of metal, so stop when the shine returns.

Silver-plated flatware needs an even lighter touch: harsh polishing compounds can quickly wear through the plating. Hand-wash, avoid citrus detergents, and dry immediately to slow corrosion.

Final Thoughts

Spotting the difference between sterling silver and plated flatware isn’t arcane chemistry; it’s a matter of reading the marks, trusting your senses, and running a couple of simple tests. Most pieces reveal their true nature long before you need professional equipment.

With this knowledge in hand, you can buy, sell, or simply set the table with confidence, knowing exactly what kind of silverware is gleaming back at you.